| CODE | 68875 |
|---|---|
| ACADEMIC YEAR | 2017/2018 |
| CREDITS | 6 credits during the 1st year of 9012 PHYSICS (LM-17) GENOVA |
| SCIENTIFIC DISCIPLINARY SECTOR | FIS/06 |
| LANGUAGE | Italian |
| TEACHING LOCATION | GENOVA (PHYSICS) |
| SEMESTER | 2° Semester |
| PREREQUISITES |
Prerequisites
You can take the exam for this unit if you passed the following exam(s):
|
The teaching of Ocean Physics aims to provide detailed knowledge of the physical laws that regulate the dynamics of the seas.
The purpose of the course is the knowledge of the dynamical equations that describe the coastal currents and the sea level variations generated by the stress of the wind on the sea surface. The use of finite difference dynamical models is adopted to describe coastal storm surges and sea waves.
Lectures for 48 hours.
Characteristics of the sea water: temperature, salinity, temperature-sanity diagrams, density, pressure. General circulation of the oceans and the Mediterranean Sea. Coriolis force and Ekman spiral.
Dynamical equations: Euler and Navier- Stokes equations. Wind stress on the sea surface and tidal forcing in enclosed basins.
Numerical models: finite difference models to compute sea level variations, coastal currents, sediment transport and variations of the coastal line.
Basic instruments: tide and current recorders, high resolution atmospheric pressure recorders and vertical long period seismometers to detect and forecast sea waves.
K. F . Bowden, Physical oceanography of Coastal Waters ( 1983). Ellis Horwood. Ltd
A. E. Gill, Atmosphere-ocean dynamics (1982). Academic Press
F. Mosetti, Fondamenti di Oceanologia e Idrologia (1979). UTET
J. Proudman, Dynamical Oceanography (1952). Methuen & COLTD
Office hours: Upon request
LORENZO PAPA (President)
ANDREA MAZZINO
PAOLO PRATI
Lectures for 48 hours.
Teaching takes place in the second semester.
Oral examination.
Periodic verification tests through computer and manual exercises.