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PHYSICS OF THE OCEAN

CODE 68875
ACADEMIC YEAR 2019/2020
CREDITS 6 credits during the 1st year of 9012 PHYSICS (LM-17) GENOVA
SCIENTIFIC DISCIPLINARY SECTOR FIS/06
LANGUAGE Italian
TEACHING LOCATION GENOVA (PHYSICS)
SEMESTER 2° Semester
PREREQUISITES
Prerequisites
You can take the exam for this unit if you passed the following exam(s):
  • PHYSICS 9012 (coorte 2019/2020)
  • THEORETICAL PHYSICS 61842
  • MATHEMATICAL METHODS IN PHYSICS 61843
  • MATTER PHYSICS 2 61844
  • NUCLEAR AND PARTICLE PHYSICS AND ASTROPHYSICS 2 61847
  • PHYSICS 9012 (coorte 2018/2019)
  • THEORETICAL PHYSICS 61842
  • MATHEMATICAL METHODS IN PHYSICS 61843
  • MATTER PHYSICS 2 61844
  • NUCLEAR AND PARTICLE PHYSICS AND ASTROPHYSICS 2 61847
TEACHING MATERIALS AULAWEB

AIMS AND CONTENT

LEARNING OUTCOMES

The teaching of Ocean Physics aims to provide detailed knowledge of the physical laws that regulate the dynamics of the seas.

AIMS AND LEARNING OUTCOMES

The purpose of the course is the knowledge of the dynamical equations  that describe the coastal currents and the sea level variations generated by the  stress of the wind on the sea surface. The use of finite difference dynamical models is adopted to describe coastal storm surges and sea waves.

TEACHING METHODS

Lectures for 48 hours.

SYLLABUS/CONTENT

Characteristics  of the sea water: temperature, salinity, temperature-sanity diagrams, density, pressure. General circulation of the oceans and the Mediterranean Sea. Coriolis force and Ekman spiral.

Dynamical equations: Euler and Navier- Stokes equations. Wind stress on the sea surface  and tidal forcing   in enclosed basins.

Numerical models: finite difference models to compute sea level variations, coastal currents, sediment transport and variations of the coastal line.      

Basic instruments: tide and current recorders, high resolution atmospheric pressure recorders and vertical long period seismometers to detect and forecast sea waves.

RECOMMENDED READING/BIBLIOGRAPHY

K. F . Bowden, Physical oceanography of Coastal Waters ( 1983). Ellis Horwood. Ltd

A. E. Gill, Atmosphere-ocean dynamics (1982). Academic Press

F. Mosetti, Fondamenti di Oceanologia e Idrologia (1979). UTET

J. Proudman, Dynamical Oceanography (1952). Methuen & COLTD

TEACHERS AND EXAM BOARD

Exam Board

LORENZO PAPA (President)

ANDREA MAZZINO

PAOLO PRATI

LESSONS

TEACHING METHODS

Lectures for 48 hours.

LESSONS START

Teaching takes place in the second semester.

Class schedule

PHYSICS OF THE OCEAN

EXAMS

EXAM DESCRIPTION

Oral examination.

ASSESSMENT METHODS

Periodic verification tests through computer and manual exercises.