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## PHYSICS OF THE OCEAN

CODE 68875 2019/2020 6 credits during the 1st year of 9012 PHYSICS (LM-17) GENOVA FIS/06 Italian GENOVA (PHYSICS) 2° Semester Prerequisites You can take the exam for this unit if you passed the following exam(s): PHYSICS 9012 (coorte 2019/2020) THEORETICAL PHYSICS 61842 MATHEMATICAL METHODS IN PHYSICS 61843 MATTER PHYSICS 2 61844 NUCLEAR AND PARTICLE PHYSICS AND ASTROPHYSICS 2 61847 PHYSICS 9012 (coorte 2018/2019) THEORETICAL PHYSICS 61842 MATHEMATICAL METHODS IN PHYSICS 61843 MATTER PHYSICS 2 61844 NUCLEAR AND PARTICLE PHYSICS AND ASTROPHYSICS 2 61847 AULAWEB

## AIMS AND CONTENT

### LEARNING OUTCOMES

The teaching of Ocean Physics aims to provide detailed knowledge of the physical laws that regulate the dynamics of the seas.

### AIMS AND LEARNING OUTCOMES

The purpose of the course is the knowledge of the dynamical equations  that describe the coastal currents and the sea level variations generated by the  stress of the wind on the sea surface. The use of finite difference dynamical models is adopted to describe coastal storm surges and sea waves.

### TEACHING METHODS

Lectures for 48 hours.

### SYLLABUS/CONTENT

Characteristics  of the sea water: temperature, salinity, temperature-sanity diagrams, density, pressure. General circulation of the oceans and the Mediterranean Sea. Coriolis force and Ekman spiral.

Dynamical equations: Euler and Navier- Stokes equations. Wind stress on the sea surface  and tidal forcing   in enclosed basins.

Numerical models: finite difference models to compute sea level variations, coastal currents, sediment transport and variations of the coastal line.

Basic instruments: tide and current recorders, high resolution atmospheric pressure recorders and vertical long period seismometers to detect and forecast sea waves.

K. F . Bowden, Physical oceanography of Coastal Waters ( 1983). Ellis Horwood. Ltd

A. E. Gill, Atmosphere-ocean dynamics (1982). Academic Press

F. Mosetti, Fondamenti di Oceanologia e Idrologia (1979). UTET

J. Proudman, Dynamical Oceanography (1952). Methuen & COLTD

## TEACHERS AND EXAM BOARD

### Exam Board

LORENZO PAPA (President)

ANDREA MAZZINO

PAOLO PRATI

## LESSONS

### TEACHING METHODS

Lectures for 48 hours.

### LESSONS START

Teaching takes place in the second semester.

### Class schedule

PHYSICS OF THE OCEAN

## EXAMS

### EXAM DESCRIPTION

Oral examination.

### ASSESSMENT METHODS

Periodic verification tests through computer and manual exercises.