OVERVIEW

The course is aimed at introducing the student to the hydrodynamics and morphodyanics of the coastal region. In particular the problem of wind wave propagation and interaction with the bottom and the coast is tackled. Moreover, the course provides a basic knowledge of tides and sediment transport

AIMS AND CONTENT

LEARNING OUTCOMES

Trained skill: ability to formulate problems of coastal engineering involving wind waves, tidal currents and their interaction with the sea bottom, the coastline and human interventions. Moreover, during the course, simple problems of practical interest will be formulated and solved.

TEACHING METHODS

The course consists of lectures (~40 hours) and exercises (~10 hours)

SYLLABUS/CONTENT

Linear and nonlinear Stokes waves, potential and kinematic wave energy, wave celerity and group celerity, wave shoaling, wave action equation, Snell law, wave refraction and diffraction phenomena, mild slope equation, linear and nonlinear theory of the bottom boundary layer, shallow water equations, solitary and cnoidal waves, Boussinesq equation, edge waves, depth and time averaged equations, radiation stresses, wave breaking, wave set-up and wave set-down, longshore current, random sea waves, tides, sediment transport, coastal morphodynamics.

RECOMMENDED READING/BIBLIOGRAPHY

Notes of the course,

C.C. Mei 'The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves' ,

I.A. Svedsen 'Introduction to nearshore hydrodynamics', World Scientific

TEACHERS AND EXAM BOARD

Exam Board

GIOVANNI BESIO (President)

PAOLO BLONDEAUX (President)

GIOVANNA VITTORI

LESSONS

Class schedule

The timetable for this course is available here: Portale EasyAcademy

EXAMS

EXAM DESCRIPTION

The exam has only an oral examination, during which the student can consult the notes of the course

Exam schedule