CODE 68875 ACADEMIC YEAR 2018/2019 CREDITS 6 cfu anno 2 FISICA 9012 (LM-17) - GENOVA 6 cfu anno 1 FISICA 9012 (LM-17) - GENOVA SCIENTIFIC DISCIPLINARY SECTOR FIS/06 LANGUAGE Italian TEACHING LOCATION GENOVA SEMESTER 2° Semester PREREQUISITES Propedeuticità in ingresso Per sostenere l'esame di questo insegnamento è necessario aver sostenuto i seguenti esami: PHYSICS 9012 (coorte 2018/2019) THEORETICAL PHYSICS 61842 2018 MATHEMATICAL METHODS IN PHYSICS 61843 2018 MATTER PHYSICS 2 61844 2018 NUCLEAR AND PARTICLE PHYSICS AND ASTROPHYSICS 2 61847 2018 PHYSICS 9012 (coorte 2017/2018) THEORETICAL PHYSICS 61842 2017 MATHEMATICAL METHODS IN PHYSICS 61843 2017 MATTER PHYSICS 2 61844 2017 NUCLEAR AND PARTICLE PHYSICS AND ASTROPHYSICS 2 61847 2017 TEACHING MATERIALS AULAWEB AIMS AND CONTENT LEARNING OUTCOMES The teaching of Ocean Physics aims to provide detailed knowledge of the physical laws that regulate the dynamics of the seas. AIMS AND LEARNING OUTCOMES The purpose of the course is the knowledge of the dynamical equations that describe the coastal currents and the sea level variations generated by the stress of the wind on the sea surface. The use of finite difference dynamical models is adopted to describe coastal storm surges and sea waves. TEACHING METHODS Lectures for 48 hours. SYLLABUS/CONTENT Characteristics of the sea water: temperature, salinity, temperature-sanity diagrams, density, pressure. General circulation of the oceans and the Mediterranean Sea. Coriolis force and Ekman spiral. Dynamical equations: Euler and Navier- Stokes equations. Wind stress on the sea surface and tidal forcing in enclosed basins. Numerical models: finite difference models to compute sea level variations, coastal currents, sediment transport and variations of the coastal line. Basic instruments: tide and current recorders, high resolution atmospheric pressure recorders and vertical long period seismometers to detect and forecast sea waves. RECOMMENDED READING/BIBLIOGRAPHY K. F . Bowden, Physical oceanography of Coastal Waters ( 1983). Ellis Horwood. Ltd A. E. Gill, Atmosphere-ocean dynamics (1982). Academic Press F. Mosetti, Fondamenti di Oceanologia e Idrologia (1979). UTET J. Proudman, Dynamical Oceanography (1952). Methuen & COLTD TEACHERS AND EXAM BOARD LORENZO PAPA Ricevimento: Upon request Exam Board LORENZO PAPA (President) ANDREA MAZZINO PAOLO PRATI LESSONS LESSONS START Teaching takes place in the second semester. Class schedule PHYSICS OF THE OCEAN EXAMS EXAM DESCRIPTION Oral examination. ASSESSMENT METHODS Periodic verification tests through computer and manual exercises.
