CHEMISTRY AND REGULATION OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS

CODE	111659
ACADEMIC YEAR	2026/2027
CREDITS	5 cfu anno 4 CHIMICA E TECNOLOGIA FARMACEUTICHE 11674 (LM-13.) - GENOVA
SCIENTIFIC DISCIPLINARY SECTOR	CHIM/09
LANGUAGE	Italian
TEACHING LOCATION	GENOVA
SEMESTER	2° Semester

OVERVIEW

The course on CHEMISTRY AND REGULATIONS GOVERNING COSMETIC PRODUCTS provides an overview of the current cosmetics industry, with a particular focus on current regulations, raw materials and finished products, their production, and their assessment in terms of efficacy, safety and sustainability

AIMS AND CONTENT

LEARNING OUTCOMES

The course aims to provide the necessary tools to train professionals competent in the field of research and development of cosmetic products, in line with market demands. The course will therefore cover and explore topics relating to the chemistry of raw materials, the composition, functionality and stability of the various categories of finished products, and techniques for assessing safety and efficacy. The course will also cover the basic regulatory aspects relating to the manufacture and marketing of cosmetic products, in accordance with current legislation. The principles of Cosmetic Sustainability and Green Cosmetic Chemistry will be introduced.

AIMS AND LEARNING OUTCOMES

The course aims to provide students with the necessary tools to undertake the study of CHEMISTRY AND REGULATORY ASPECTS OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS, with a view to acquiring the skills required to operate within the cosmetics sector – particularly in the field of research and development – in an independent, competent, professional and critical manner.

Knowledge and Understanding: The course will cover and explore in depth fundamental topics relating to raw materials of cosmetic interest, their chemical composition, preparation and functionality; finished products, preparation techniques and challenges, skin-cosmetic interactions and the safety of the finished product. It will also address the basic regulatory aspects relating to the production and marketing of the finished product, in accordance with the European Cosmetics Regulation, whilst also touching upon aspects of sustainability and Green Cosmetic Chemistry.

Learning Outcomes
Application of legislative standards concerning the production and sale of cosmetic products.

Ability to analyse and manage information relating to raw materials and finished products, drawing on knowledge acquired regarding the cosmetics supply chain, sustainability, the use of technical data sheets and GMP.

Ability to manage cosmetic products. Skills in the field of cosmetic product research and development

PREREQUISITES

Students must have acquired and assimilated the knowledge provided by the courses in General and Inorganic Chemistry and Organic Chemistry, which are essential for understanding the nature of cosmetic raw materials and formulation principles. (Prerequisites: General and Inorganic Chemistry, Organic Chemistry I, Organic Chemistry II)

A basic understanding of anatomy, physiology and pharmaceutical technology is useful.

TEACHING METHODS

Lectures with PowerPoint presentations, available on Aulaweb and provided to students before each session.

Workshops and seminars with industry specialists

Non-assessed formative assessments

In-class exam simulations

Students with valid certificates relating to Specific Learning Disorders (SLD), disabilities or other educational needs, duly submitted to the University, are invited to contact the lecturer and the School/Department’s disability liaison officer (Prof. Luca Raiteri, Luca. Raiteri@unige.it) at the start of the course to agree on any teaching arrangements which, whilst respecting the course objectives, take into account individual learning styles.

https://unige.it/disabilita-dsa/comunicazioni

SYLLABUS/CONTENT

The cosmetics supply chain and its regulatory framework

Cosmetics Regulation 1223/09 and related guidelines: Discussion of articles and annexes

Quality management systems relevant to the cosmetics sector

The cosmetics market and product cost components

Sustainability and Green Cosmetic Chemistry

SKIN AND SKIN APPENDAGES

Structure, composition and role of the epidermis.

Keratinisation and melanogenesis

Composition, structure and life cycle of the hair

Hydrolipid film: composition and functions. Role of hydrophilic and lipophilic components in natural skin physiology

Skin lipids: composition, physiological role and role in hydration

RAW MATERIALS

Basic and functional ingredients. Description and production of natural and synthetic ingredients.

Classification of natural and synthetic lipophilic substances. Fats, oils and butters. Paraffinic hydrocarbons, terpenic hydrocarbons, triglycerides and unsaponifiable fraction, esters and waxes, ethers, silicones, ceramides, liposomes.

Natural and synthetic hydrophilic substances and humectants. Description and production of natural and synthetic ingredients. Skin and cosmetic functions.

Rheological modifiers and an introduction to rheology. Cosmetic role. Classification of natural, synthetic and semi-synthetic substances, both hydrophilic and lipophilic. Carbomers. Natural and synthetic clays, organophilic clays and their preparation. Laponite

Anionic surfactants, in particular detergents. General principles, classification, preparation: soaps, semi-hard soaps, amino acid derivatives, sulphate esters, sulphonic acid derivatives.

Amphoteric surfactants,

Cationic surfactants, antimicrobial and conditioning functions in cosmetics, structure-activity relationship

Amphoteric surfactants, betaines. Origin, preparation, cosmetic uses

Non-ionic surfactants: ethoxylated and non-ethoxylated emulsifiers. Foam stabilisers. Non-ionic detergents, alkyl polyglucosides

Colour: principles and uses. Classification systems and their application. Pigments: inorganic (mineral and synthetic), organic (natural and synthetic), lacquers and toners. Natural and synthetic dyes. Chromogenic materials. References to current legislation (Annex IV)

Cosmetic preservation. Primary and secondary preservation. Microbial contamination of cosmetics. PAO. The challenge test. Hurdle technology. Antimicrobial preservatives. Primary and secondary antioxidants. preservative-free cosmetics

Smell, fragrances, aromas and pheromones.

Functional Substances: Plant-based active ingredients and their extraction.

Technological ingredients (biomimetic peptides): description and synthesis.

Innovative extraction methods and cosmetic applications. Principles of Green Cosmetic Chemistry

FORMULATIONS

CLEANSING PRODUCTS: Principles of cleansing

Cleansing products for the skin and its appendages. Soaps, solid and liquid surfactants, non-soap cleansers, syndets, shampoos, other bath products. Soap and syndet production

Oral hygiene products.

MOISTURISING AND EMOLLIENT PRODUCTS: Principles of moisturisation

Cosmetic O/W, W/O, micro- and nano-emulsions, multiple emulsions, cold cream, silicone emulsions. Stability testing

Deodorants

Hair dyes: temporary, semi-permanent, oxidative

Sun protection: sun filters, self-tanning and skin-lightening agents.

COSMETIC PACKAGING

Historical overview and new trends

Design, function and composition of cosmetic packaging. Biodegradable and recyclable materials

Compatibility and interactions between packaging and cosmetic products (packaging assessment in accordance with regulations)

TEACHERS AND EXAM BOARD

CARLA VILLA

Ricevimento: The professor is available for clarification and further discussion every day by appointment, to be arranged via email

LESSONS

LESSONS START

Second semester

Class schedule

The timetable for this course is available here: Portale EasyAcademy

EXAMS

EXAM DESCRIPTION

An oral examination, to be held in person only, designed to assess the knowledge acquired in relation to the syllabus covered during the lectures. The examination takes place in the presence of two professors, one of whom is always the course responsible.