OVERVIEW

The course will concern the main textile structures of ancient fabrics both from a technical and an art-historical point of view, with continuous references to the major steps of the history of luxury fabrics from the Middle Ages to the 18th century, according to an Eurasian perspective and in correlation with the other decorative arts. At the same time, students will have the opportunity to explore the main issues in the history of costume and fashion between the Middle Ages and the contemporary age, exploring some important subjects concerning the period between the 18th and 20th centuries. The course will involve some regular classes in Ligurian textile collections reserved for attending students, during which, besides the direct analysis of some objects, the theme of the conservation and enhancement of the textile heritage will be presented in broad terms.

AIMS AND CONTENT

LEARNING OUTCOMES

The course will focus on the main weave structures of ancient textiles, both from a technical and a historical point of view. Moreover, adopting a Eurasian perspective, the course will deal with the main topics of the history of sumptuary textiles from the Middle Ages to the 18th century. Some episodes of the fashion history between the Middle Ages and contemporary age will also be considered, especially between the 18th and 20th centuries.

AIMS AND LEARNING OUTCOMES

The most important training objectives of the teaching of History of the Textile Techniques and Fashion are:

• To introduce students to the technical investigation of ancient fabrics, providing the basic information for the recognition of the main types of fabrics, the various fabric decoration techniques and for the use of the related vocabulary, in accordance with the criteria established by the CIETA (Centre international d'étude des textiles anciens) of Lyon, but also outlining the fundamental elements for correct cataloging on the basis of the available record models. At the same time, to start the conservative analysis of textile artefacts, presenting in broad terms the problems relating to the deterioration and their correct conservation.
• To provide the tools to reconnect, correctly and comprehensively, the textile artefacts to the historical-artistic context of a specific period, highlighting their close relationships with this one and in particular with the other sumptuary arts, focusing on local production of the pre-industrial era.
• To provide basic tools for the study of the history of costume and fashion, presenting, alongside the main phases of the evolution of costume in the long term, the multiple documentary, iconographic and material sources connected to this area, with special regard to those present in the Ligurian territory.

After the course, the students will be able to identify the main textile weaves, to recognise, in broad terms, the main conservation problems of a textile artefact and to set up a catalogue record. They will be able to distinguish, according to the types of decorations and techniques, the most important phases in the history of luxury textile products from the Middle Ages to the 18th century and the salient moments of the evolution of fashion up to the 20th century, identifying the connections with the various Art movements and with cultural and material history.

PREREQUISITES

Basic knowledge of History of Art from Middle Ages to 20th Century.

TEACHING METHODS

The lessons are carried out in person. Attendance, although not compulsory, is recommended.

During the course, there are some external visits which we recommend taking part in, because they are useful for learning to do the concrete analysis of the artefacts and for setting up the filing. There’s no substitute for looking at the real objects.

Please remember to register on the teaching Aulaweb, which is an indispensable tool for communications and access to useful materials for studying and for the final exam

SYLLABUS/CONTENT

The program is valid for both attending and non-attending students.

The course includes two parts. Attendance is highly recommended.

The first part is dedicated to the technical analysis of fabrics and to the historical-artistic study of ancient cloths.

Topics:

• Textile fibers and metal threads (processing methods, types and identification, raw dyes)
• Introduction to the main weaves of ancient textiles and their classification: plain weaves and derivatives, figured and embroidered fabrics
• Evolution of the main textile typologies from the Early Middle Ages to the 18th century in relation to the various Art movements, historical contexts and other sumptuary arts, in a Eurasian perspective
• Velvet and damask: the case of Genoa
• The various type of decorations and their dissemination: the Pattern Books
• The printed textiles

These topics will be investigated also during the visits to the Textile Collections in Museums or private Institutions.

The second part is dedicated to the History of the Fashion and of the Costumes from the Middle Ages to the 20th Century.

Topics:

• The birth of the Western Fashion at the end of the Middle Ages
• The sources of the Fashion and the Fashion as a source: Archival Documentation, Magazines and Works of Art
• Costumes and Fashion in the Italian Renaissance Courts
• European Fashion between 16th and 17th century
• 18th Century Fashion between ancien régime and Revolutions
• 19th Century Fashion: the revivals, Charles Frederick Worth and the invention of contemporary Fashion
• Western costumes from the beginning to the Sixties of the 20th Century: the de-structured women clothes, the great Fashion Houses from Poiret to Coco Chanel. The birth of the Italian Fashion.

RECOMMENDED READING/BIBLIOGRAPHY

For attending students

a) class notes and slides

b) the students can choose a text among the followers:

• M. G. Muzzarelli, Breve storia della moda in Italia, Bologna 2009
• G. Riello, La moda, Una storia dal Medioevo a oggi, Roma - Bari 2012

c) M.L. Rosati, Le manifatture della seta in Italia nel Basso Medioevo: produzioni seriali al servizio del lusso, in Fatto in Italia. Dal Medioevo al Made in Italy, catalogo della mostra (Venaria Reale, 19 marzo – 10 luglio 2016), a cura di A. Guerrini, Milano 2016, pp. 56-73.

d) Arte e lusso della seta a Genova dal ‘500 al ‘700, catalogo della mostra (Genova, 11 novembre 2000 – 11 febbraio 2001), a cura di M. Cataldi Gallo, Torino 2000.

The texts will be confirmed at the beginning of the lessons. For the text of point d) the study will be limited only to a selection of chapters. Further bibliographical information to investigate some topic will be provided during the lessons.

The list of texts may undergo changes and therefore we suggest, before purchasing or borrowing, to wait for the lessons to start and the presentation of the program by the teacher.

Text to consultate

• CIETA_ VOCABULAIRE TECHNIQUE FRANÇAIS edizione 2020
  Free download:
  https://cieta.fr/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Vocabulaire-franc%CC%A7ais_8mai20.pdf
• CIETA_ VOCABULARIO TECNICO ITALIANO edizione 2019
  Free download:
  https://cieta.fr/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Dizionario-italiano_Marzo-19.pdf

For non-attending students

The exam program for non-attending students will be agreed with the teacher; they could also write a dissertation to replace part of the exam bibliography relating to the first or second part.

TEACHERS AND EXAM BOARD

Exam Board

LOREDANA PESSA (President)

GIANLUCA AMERI

DANIELE SANGUINETI (President Substitute)

MARIA LUDOVICA ROSATI (President)

GIANLUCA AMERI

LESSONS

LESSONS START

February 20, 2025

Class schedule

The timetable for this course is available here: Portale EasyAcademy

EXAMS

EXAM DESCRIPTION

The exam consists of an oral interview with the aid of images on the topics covered in the course, on the related materials provided in class and on the bibliography. The student will be subjected to one or more recognition and description tests of the artefacts from a technical and/or historical-artistic point of view. Starting from the works, a broader contextualization will be requested with references to artistic, cultural and social themes.

For students who request it, it is possible to create a written essay on a topic from the first or second part of the course. The essay will be presented orally during the exam and will replace the part of the interview relating to the contents explored by the student in his written paper.

Students with disabilities or learning disorders.

Students with disabilities or learning disorders are entitled specific adjustments, provided they upload the relevant certifications and documents on the University's dedicated webpage. See http://servizionline.unige.it under rubric 'Students'. The documents will be validated by the relevant office within the University (Settore servizi per l’inclusione degli studenti con disabilità e con DSA dell’Ateneo) (https://rubrica.unige.it/strutture/struttura/100111).

At least 10 days before the exam, students will have to email the instructor, Cc'ing the aforementioned office, as well as the School's deputy for matters concerning students with disabilities and learning disorders (elisabetta.colagrossi@unige.it). Please specify the following in your email:

- name, surname, student number
- course name and number
- date of your exam
- adjustments required

Once the School's representative confirms your eligibility, you will liaise with your instructor to finalize the details. The final decision on what adjustments are acceptable rests with your instructor.

Please note that any request must be sent at least 10 days before your exam, to successfully complete the process in time. Please also note that the mind maps to be used on the day of your exam have to be significantly more concise than those you use when you study.

For further information, please see:
https://unige.it/sites/unige.it/files/2024-05/Linee%20guida%20per%20la%20richiesta%20di%20servizi%2C%20di%20strumenti%20compensativi%20e_o%20di%20misure%20dispensative%20e%20di%20ausili%20specifici%20Maggio%202024.pdf

Exam schedule