OVERVIEW

The course on COSMETIC PRODUCT TECHNOLOGY AND REGULATION offers an in-depth overview of the cosmetics industry, with a particular focus on its regulatory framework, operations, formulation and responsible use. To this end, the course provides the knowledge needed to understand the dynamics of the sector and to acquire expertise regarding current regulations, ingredients, formulations, safety, efficacy and sustainability of cosmetic products, whilst also covering general aspects of sustainability, marketing and communication. 

AIMS AND CONTENT

LEARNING OUTCOMES

The course aims to provide students with the tools necessary to undertake the study of  COSMETIC PRODUCT TECHNOLOGY AND REGULATIONS  in order to acquire and apply the skills required to operate within the cosmetics sector independently, competently, professionally and critically. The main objective is to provide a solid scientific foundation for understanding and applying the chemical, technological, regulatory and functional principles of cosmetology, as well as the general aspects of cosmetics marketing and sustainability

AIMS AND LEARNING OUTCOMES

The course aims to provide students with the necessary tools to undertake the study of COSMETIC PRODUCT TECHNOLOGY AND REGULATIONS, with a view to acquiring the skills required to operate within the cosmetics sector independently, competently, professionally and critically. 

Knowledge and Understanding: Basic topics relating to raw materials of cosmetic interest and their functionality will be covered and explored in depth; finished products, formulation techniques and challenges, skin-cosmetic interactions and the safety of the finished product. The course will also address the basic regulatory aspects relating to the production and marketing of the finished product, in accordance with the European Cosmetics Regulation and related standards, with an overview of the principles underpinning cosmetics marketing, also touching on aspects of sustainability

Learning Outcomes
Application of legislative regulations concerning the production and sale of cosmetic products.
Ability to manage cosmetic products, particularly those distributed through the pharmacy channel. Ability to communicate, promote, advise on and evaluate a cosmetic product
Ability to analyse and manage information relating to raw materials and finished products, drawing on knowledge acquired regarding sustainability, the cosmetics supply chain, the use of technical data sheets and GMP 

PREREQUISITES

Students must have acquired and assimilated the knowledge provided by the General and Inorganic Chemistry and Organic Chemistry courses,  essential for understanding and applying cosmetic raw materials and formulation principles. (Prerequisites: General and Inorganic Chemistry, Organic Chemistry)

A basic understanding of anatomy, physiology and pharmaceutical technology is useful 

TEACHING METHODS

Lectures with PowerPoint presentations, available on Aulaweb and provided to students before each session.

Group work involving case study analysis

Workshops and seminars with industry specialists

Non-assessed formative assessments

In-class exam simulations

Students with valid certificates relating to Specific Learning Disorders (SLD), disabilities or other educational needs, duly submitted to the University, are invited to contact the lecturer and the School/Department’s disability liaison officer (Prof. Luca Raiteri, Luca. Raiteri@unige.it) at the start of the course to agree on any teaching arrangements which, whilst respecting the course objectives, take into account individual learning styles.

 https://unige.it/disabilita-dsa/comunicazioni

SYLLABUS/CONTENT

The cosmetics supply chain and its regulatory framework

Cosmetics Regulation 1223/09 and related guidelines: Discussion of articles and annexes

The cosmetics market and product cost components

An introduction to cosmetic marketing and neuromarketing – Neuroscience applied to cosmetics

An Introduction to Sustainability in Cosmetics

SKIN AND SKIN APPENDAGES:

 Structure, composition and role of the epidermis.

Keratinisation and melanogenesis

Composition, structure and life cycle of the hair

Nails

SKIN HYDRATION: the role of hydrophilic and lipophilic components in natural skin physiology

Hydrolipid film: composition and functions

Skin lipids: composition, physiological role and role in hydration

RAW MATERIALS: basic and functional ingredients.

Classification of natural and synthetic lipophilic substances. Fats, oils and butters

Paraffinic hydrocarbons, terpenic hydrocarbons, triglycerides and unsaponifiable fraction, esters and waxes, ethers, silicones, ceramides, liposomes.

Natural and synthetic hydrophilic substances and humectants. Skin and cosmetic functions.

Rheological modifiers and an introduction to rheology. Cosmetic role. Classification of natural, synthetic and semi-synthetic substances, both hydrophilic and lipophilic. Carbomers. Natural and synthetic clays, organophilic clays and their preparation. Laponite

Anionic surfactants, in particular detergents. General principles and classification: soaps and saponification, interrupted soaps, amino acid derivatives, sulphate esters, sulphonic acid derivatives.

Cationic surfactants and their antimicrobial and conditioning functions in cosmetics

Amphoteric surfactants, betaines and their role in cosmetics.

Ethoxylated and non-ethoxylated non-ionic emulsifying surfactants. Foam stabilisers. Non-ionic detergents, glycosidic esters

Colour: principles and uses. Classification systems and their application. Pigments: inorganic (mineral and synthetic), organic (natural and synthetic), lacquers and toners. Natural and synthetic dyes. Chromogenic materials. References to current legislation (Annex IV)

Cosmetic preservation. Primary and secondary preservation. Microbial contamination of cosmetics. PAO. The challenge test. Hurdle technology. Antimicrobial preservatives. Primary and secondary antioxidants. Non-preservative preservatives.

Smell, perfumes, aromas and pheromones

Functional Substances: Plant-based and technological active ingredients (biomimetic peptides)

COSMETIC FORMULATIONS

CLEANSING PRODUCTS: Principles of cleansing

Cleansers for the skin and skin appendages: Soaps, syndets, liquid tensio-lites, non-soap cleansers, shampoos, other bath products. Formulation examples

Dental hygiene products. Formulation examples

Deodorants. Formulation examples

MOISTURISING AND EMOLLIENT PRODUCTS

Cosmetic emulsions: O/W, W/O, cold creams, silicone emulsions. Stability. Formulation examples

Sun protection: tanning, sun care products, self-tanning and skin-lightening products. Formulation examples

Hair dyes: temporary, semi-permanent, oxidative

Products used to treat skin imperfections

An introduction to decorative cosmetics

An introduction to oncological cosmetics

COSMETIC PACKAGING

Historical overview and new trends

Design, function and composition of cosmetic packaging. Biodegradable and recyclable materials

Compatibility and interactions between packaging and cosmetic products (assessment of packaging in accordance with regulations)

INTRODUCTION TO FORMULATION

How to formulate a product: analysis of technical data sheets for base ingredients and active ingredients

Analysis of commercial products and formulation design (group work)

RECOMMENDED READING/BIBLIOGRAPHY

For further reading:

G. D'Agostinis, E. Mignini "Manuale del Cosmetologo, III edizione", 2022, edito da Tcniche Nuove

Regolamento (CE) n. 1223/2009 del Parlamento europeo e del Consiglio del 30 novembre 2009 , sui prodotti cosmetici https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2009/1223/oj

TEACHERS AND EXAM BOARD

LESSONS

LESSONS START

Second semester

Class schedule

The timetable for this course is available here: Portale EasyAcademy

EXAMS

EXAM DESCRIPTION

An oral examination, to be held in person only, designed to assess the knowledge acquired in relation to the syllabus covered during the lectures.  The examination takes place  in the presence of two professors, one of whom is always the course responsible.

ASSESSMENT METHODS

The knowledge and skills acquired will be assessed through:

- a detailed descriptive analysis of a cosmetic formulation,

- an assessment of knowledge of current regulations,

- questions relating to the rest of the syllabus