|SCIENTIFIC DISCIPLINARY SECTOR||ICAR/01|
|MODULES||This unit is a module of:|
The course is aimed at introducing the student to the hydrodynamics and morphodyanics of the coastal region
The course is aimed at making the student capable of formulating and solving the problems related to the propagation of sea waves from the offshore region to the coastline considering refraction and difraction phenomena and the possible wave breaking. The morphodynamic phenomena generated by sea waves will be also described.
Working students and students with SLD, disability or other special educational needs are advised to contact the teacher at the beginning of the course to agree on teaching and examination methods that, in compliance with the teaching objectives, take into account their individual needs
1: Stokes waves: Introduction - The evolution of a monochromatic wave: formulation of the problem - Small amplitude waves: the solution of the linear problem - Some characteristics of the small amplitude waves - Superposition of waves - Standing waves
2: Nonlinear effects: Introduction - Nonlinear effects on a progressive wave -
Nonlinear effects on a standing wave - Saintflou diagram
3: Refraction phenomena - The energy of a propagating wave and the energy flux - Group velocity: a kinetic interpretation - The phenomenon of shoaling - The equation of wave action - Wave rays and Snell’s law.
4: Diffraction - Helmholtz equation - Cases of engineering interest.
5: Viscous effects: the bottom boundary layer - The flow field and the shear stress in the boundary layer: the linear approach - Nonlinear effects and the generation of a steady current
6 : Shallow water waves - Introduction and Boussinesq theory - The solitary wave - Cnoidal waves - Edge waves
7: Depth-averaged equations for steady currents
8: The depth and time averaged equations - Introduction - Continuity equation - Momentum equation - Some preliminary simplifications - The radiation stress tensor
9: The phenomenon of wave breaking - The set-down and set-up - The longshore current
10: The tides
11: The sediment transport
12: Coastal morphology
Course notes available on request (send a message to: firstname.lastname@example.org)
Office hours: It is possible to fix an appointment with the teacher by sending an e-mail message to: email@example.com
Office hours: Students will be received by appointment, which can be fixed by sending an e-mail message to firstname.lastname@example.org
PAOLO BLONDEAUX (President)
FRANCESCO DE LEO
ANDREA MARGARITA LIRA LOARCA
GIOVANNI BESIO (President Substitute)
All class schedules are posted on the EasyAcademy portal.
The exam is aimed at verifying the capability of the student to formulate and solve simple problems of coastal hydrodynamics anf morphodynamics
|04/01/2023||11:00||GENOVA||Esame su appuntamento||Data e orario da concordare con il docente.|
|19/01/2023||11:00||GENOVA||Esame su appuntamento||Data e orario da concordare con il docente.|
|14/02/2023||11:00||GENOVA||Esame su appuntamento||Data e orario da concordare con il docente.|
|21/06/2023||11:00||GENOVA||Esame su appuntamento||Data e orario da concordare con il docente.|
|05/07/2023||11:00||GENOVA||Esame su appuntamento||Data e orario da concordare con il docente.|
|07/09/2023||11:00||GENOVA||Esame su appuntamento||Data e orario da concordare con il docente.|