LEARNING OUTCOMES

The course is aimed at introducing the student to the hydrodynamics and morphodyanics of the coastal region

AIMS AND LEARNING OUTCOMES

The course is aimed at making the student capable of formulating and solving the problems related to the propagation of sea waves from the offshore region to the coastline considering refraction and difraction phenomena and the possible wave breaking. The morphodynamic phenomena generated by sea waves will be also described.

 

TEACHING METHODS

Frontal lectures

Working students and students with SLD, disability or other special educational needs are advised to contact the teacher at the beginning of the course to agree on teaching and examination methods that, in compliance with the teaching objectives, take into account their individual needs

SYLLABUS/CONTENT

1: Stokes waves: Introduction - The evolution of a monochromatic wave: formulation of the problem - Small amplitude waves: the solution of the linear problem - Some characteristics of the small amplitude waves - Superposition of waves - Standing waves
2: Nonlinear effects: Introduction - Nonlinear effects on a progressive wave -
Nonlinear effects on a standing wave - Saintflou diagram
3: Refraction phenomena - The energy of a propagating wave and the energy flux - Group velocity: a kinetic interpretation - The phenomenon of shoaling - The equation of wave action - Wave rays and Snell’s law.
4: Diffraction - Helmholtz equation - Cases of engineering interest.
5: Viscous effects: the bottom boundary layer - The flow field and the shear stress in the boundary layer: the linear approach - Nonlinear effects and the generation of a steady current
6 : Shallow water waves - Introduction and Boussinesq theory - The solitary wave - Cnoidal waves - Edge waves
7: Depth-averaged equations for steady currents
8: The depth and time averaged equations - Introduction - Continuity equation - Momentum equation - Some preliminary simplifications - The radiation stress tensor
9: The phenomenon of wave breaking  - The set-down and set-up - The longshore current
10: The tides
11: The sediment transport
12: Coastal morphology

RECOMMENDED READING/BIBLIOGRAPHY

Course notes available on request (send a message to:      paolo.blondeaux@unige.it)