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COASTAL HYDRO- AND MORPHO-DYNAMICS

CODE 98074
ACADEMIC YEAR 2022/2023
CREDITS
  • 10 cfu during the 2nd year of 10720 ENVIRONMENTAL ENGINEERING (LM-35) - GENOVA
  • SCIENTIFIC DISCIPLINARY SECTOR ICAR/01
    LANGUAGE English
    TEACHING LOCATION
  • GENOVA
  • SEMESTER 1° Semester
    MODULES This unit is a module of:
    TEACHING MATERIALS AULAWEB

    AIMS AND CONTENT

    LEARNING OUTCOMES

    The course is aimed at introducing the student to the hydrodynamics and morphodyanics of the coastal region

    AIMS AND LEARNING OUTCOMES

    The course is aimed at making the student capable of formulating and solving the problems related to the propagation of sea waves from the offshore region to the coastline considering refraction and difraction phenomena and the possible wave breaking. The morphodynamic phenomena generated by sea waves will be also described.
    
     

    TEACHING METHODS

    Frontal lectures

    Working students and students with SLD, disability or other special educational needs are advised to contact the teacher at the beginning of the course to agree on teaching and examination methods that, in compliance with the teaching objectives, take into account their individual needs
    
     

    SYLLABUS/CONTENT

    1: Stokes waves: Introduction - The evolution of a monochromatic wave: formulation of the problem - Small amplitude waves: the solution of the linear problem - Some characteristics of the small amplitude waves - Superposition of waves - Standing waves
    2: Nonlinear effects: Introduction - Nonlinear effects on a progressive wave -
    Nonlinear effects on a standing wave - Saintflou diagram
    3: Refraction phenomena - The energy of a propagating wave and the energy flux - Group velocity: a kinetic interpretation - The phenomenon of shoaling - The equation of wave action - Wave rays and Snell’s law.
    4: Diffraction - Helmholtz equation - Cases of engineering interest.
    5: Viscous effects: the bottom boundary layer - The flow field and the shear stress in the boundary layer: the linear approach - Nonlinear effects and the generation of a steady current
    6 : Shallow water waves - Introduction and Boussinesq theory - The solitary wave - Cnoidal waves - Edge waves
    7: Depth-averaged equations for steady currents
    8: The depth and time averaged equations - Introduction - Continuity equation - Momentum equation - Some preliminary simplifications - The radiation stress tensor
    9: The phenomenon of wave breaking  - The set-down and set-up - The longshore current
    10: The tides
    11: The sediment transport
    12: Coastal morphology

    RECOMMENDED READING/BIBLIOGRAPHY

    Course notes available on request (send a message to:      paolo.blondeaux@unige.it)

    TEACHERS AND EXAM BOARD

    LESSONS

    Class schedule

    All class schedules are posted on the EasyAcademy portal.

    EXAMS

    EXAM DESCRIPTION

    Oral exam

    ASSESSMENT METHODS

    The exam is aimed at verifying the capability of the student to formulate and solve simple problems of coastal hydrodynamics anf morphodynamics