CODE 98074 2022/2023 5 cfu anno 2 ENVIRONMENTAL ENGINEERING 10720 (LM-35) - GENOVA ICAR/01 English GENOVA 1° Semester Questo insegnamento è un modulo di: AULAWEB

## AIMS AND CONTENT

### LEARNING OUTCOMES

The course is aimed at introducing the student to the hydrodynamics and morphodyanics of the coastal region

### AIMS AND LEARNING OUTCOMES

```The course is aimed at making the student capable of formulating and solving the problems related to the propagation of sea waves from the offshore region to the coastline considering refraction and difraction phenomena and the possible wave breaking. The morphodynamic phenomena generated by sea waves will be also described.

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### TEACHING METHODS

Frontal lectures

`Working students and students with SLD, disability or other special educational needs are advised to contact the teacher at the beginning of the course to agree on teaching and examination methods that, in compliance with the teaching objectives, take into account their individual needs`
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### SYLLABUS/CONTENT

1: Stokes waves: Introduction - The evolution of a monochromatic wave: formulation of the problem - Small amplitude waves: the solution of the linear problem - Some characteristics of the small amplitude waves - Superposition of waves - Standing waves
2: Nonlinear effects: Introduction - Nonlinear effects on a progressive wave -
Nonlinear effects on a standing wave - Saintflou diagram
3: Refraction phenomena - The energy of a propagating wave and the energy flux - Group velocity: a kinetic interpretation - The phenomenon of shoaling - The equation of wave action - Wave rays and Snell’s law.
4: Diffraction - Helmholtz equation - Cases of engineering interest.
5: Viscous effects: the bottom boundary layer - The flow field and the shear stress in the boundary layer: the linear approach - Nonlinear effects and the generation of a steady current
6 : Shallow water waves - Introduction and Boussinesq theory - The solitary wave - Cnoidal waves - Edge waves
7: Depth-averaged equations for steady currents
8: The depth and time averaged equations - Introduction - Continuity equation - Momentum equation - Some preliminary simplifications - The radiation stress tensor
9: The phenomenon of wave breaking  - The set-down and set-up - The longshore current
10: The tides
11: The sediment transport
12: Coastal morphology

Course notes available on request (send a message to:      paolo.blondeaux@unige.it)

## TEACHERS AND EXAM BOARD

### Exam Board

PAOLO BLONDEAUX (President)

FRANCESCO DE LEO

ANDREA MARGARITA LIRA LOARCA

GIOVANNA VITTORI

GIOVANNI BESIO (President Substitute)

## LESSONS

### LESSONS START

https://corsi.unige.it/10720/p/studenti-orario

### Class schedule

The timetable for this course is available here: Portale EasyAcademy

## EXAMS

Oral exam

### ASSESSMENT METHODS

```The exam is aimed at verifying the capability of the student to formulate and solve simple problems of coastal hydrodynamics anf morphodynamics
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### Exam schedule

Data appello Orario Luogo Degree type Note
04/01/2023 11:00 GENOVA Esame su appuntamento
19/01/2023 11:00 GENOVA Esame su appuntamento
14/02/2023 11:00 GENOVA Esame su appuntamento
21/06/2023 11:00 GENOVA Esame su appuntamento
05/07/2023 11:00 GENOVA Esame su appuntamento
07/09/2023 11:00 GENOVA Esame su appuntamento