AIMS AND CONTENT

LEARNING OUTCOMES

The course is aimed at introducing the student to the hydrodynamics and morphodyanics of the coastal region

AIMS AND LEARNING OUTCOMES

The course is aimed at making the student capable of formulating and solving the problems related to the propagation of sea waves from the offshore region to the coastline considering refraction and diffraction phenomena and the possible wave breaking. The morphodynamic phenomena generated by sea waves will be also described.

 

TEACHING METHODS

Frontal lectures.

Students who have valid certification of physical or learning disabilities on file with the University and who wish to discuss possible accommodations or other circumstances regarding lectures, coursework and exams, should speak both with the instructor and with Professor Federico Scarpa (federico.scarpa@unige.it), the Polytechnic School's disability liaison.

SYLLABUS/CONTENT

1: Stokes waves: Introduction - The evolution of a monochromatic wave: formulation of the problem - Small amplitude waves: the solution of the linear problem - Some characteristics of the small amplitude waves - Superposition of waves - Standing waves

2: Nonlinear effects: Introduction - Nonlinear effects on a progressive wave -
Nonlinear effects on a standing wave - Saintflou diagram

3: Refraction phenomena - The energy of a propagating wave and the energy flux - Group velocity: a kinetic interpretation - The phenomenon of shoaling - The equation of wave action - Wave rays and Snell’s law.

4: Diffraction - Helmholtz equation - Cases of engineering interest.

5: Viscous effects: the bottom boundary layer - The flow field and the shear stress in the boundary layer: the linear approach - Nonlinear effects and the generation of a steady current

6 : Shallow water waves - Introduction and Boussinesq theory - The solitary wave - Cnoidal waves - Edge waves

7: Depth-averaged equations for steady currents

8: The depth and time averaged equations - Introduction - Continuity equation - Momentum equation - Some preliminary simplifications - The radiation stress tensor

9: The phenomenon of wave breaking  - The set-down and set-up - The longshore current

10: The tides

11: The sediment transport

12: Coastal morphology

RECOMMENDED READING/BIBLIOGRAPHY

Course notes available on request.

Send an email message to michele.bollapittaluga@unige.it or marco.mazzuoli@unige.it

"SEA WAVES, TIDAL CURRENTS AND COASTAL FORMS", Blondeaux, P. & Vittori, G.

TEACHERS AND EXAM BOARD

Exam Board

GIOVANNI BESIO (President)

MICHELE BOLLA PITTALUGA (President)

MARCO MAZZUOLI (President)

GIOVANNA VITTORI

LESSONS

LESSONS START

https://corsi.unige.it/10720/p/studenti-orario

Class schedule

The timetable for this course is available here: Portale EasyAcademy

EXAMS

EXAM DESCRIPTION

Oral exam

ASSESSMENT METHODS

The exam is aimed at verifying the capability of the student to formulate and solve simple problems of coastal hydrodynamics anf morphodynamics

Exam schedule